Here are some Frequently Asked Questions. If you have a question that is not here please contact us @1-888-582-0608.
Q: What styles or models of your gazebos should I choose from ? What are the differences?
A: The Pacific Series are the hip roof (four side slopes) style gazebos that have dome skylights at the center of the roof. The Islander Series are the gable roof (two side slopes) style houses that have colored sheet metal roof. Both Pacific and Islander series have the same wall, window and door systems. They are fully enclosed, freestanding and provide warmth and privacy. Their differences are just in the roof. If you like traditional gazebo design, you may prefer the Pacific line. If you want higher roof line, you may favor the Islander series. Most people order our Pacific series gazebos because of the fancy hip roofs and big skylights.
The Hawaii Series are open air style. They have hip roof and sky domes too. But they are not fully enclosed. The lattice walls create an environment for retreat and peace. If you like open air and nature more, the Hawaii series could be your choice.
Our garden series are good for garden retreats. They are the classical garden gazebos. Due to its octagonal shape, the Garden gazebo has limited space to fit a square sized spa. But it may be fit for a rounded small hot tub.
Q: What's size of gazebo should I have?
A: The bigger the better. However the bigger costs more. The rule of thumb is for fully enclosed gazebo you need a size that can fit your spa plus there is a walkway with width 24" minimum. For example, if your spa is 7'x7', you'd better choose a 10'x10' spa enclosure. If you consider to have a area for change and other activities, the 10'x12' is better. For lattice style, you can choose a size just fit your spa or a size large enough for party.
Q: Is a building permit required?
A. In most cases, no. It depends on the size of the gazebo. In most counties, any structure larger than 130 sq. ft. (10 x 13) should technically have a permit. This varies somewhat from county to county. So it is a good idea to check with your local building department to see if this might be an issue. These structures are generally not considered permanent because they have no plumbing or electrical built in, and they are not attached to the house.
Q. What type of foundation is required?
A. Any structure is only as good as it has foundation. We suggest that the gazebo be installed on a wood deck or a poured cement pad. The key factor is how LEVEL the surface is. The footing cannot have a "crown" or high spot. The whole pad can be tilted several degrees for drainage, as long as the tilt is all in one plane. The smallest gazebo weighs about 1000 lbs, and if there is going to be a spa inside, that weight is also significant, so the foundation needs to be able to support these combined weights.
Q. What size foundation is required?
A. This depends upon the size of the gazebo. The most important measurement is the outside dimension of the gazebo. This information can be found on each of the gazebo page under the specification and dimensions. Once you find your model size and the appropriate outside dimensions, simply add about 12" all the way around..
Q. Can the gazebo be attached to the foundation?
A. Yes it can. The gazebo should be attached to the wood deck or cement pad using screws, anchor bolts or angle metal braces after the gazebo assembled. Use angle braces to connect the wall studs and wall bottom plates. This helps make the structure more rigid. The special cement anchors can be embed into the cement pad to accept screws. For area with strong seasonal wind, it is more important to apply optional means to fasten the gazebo to the foundation.
Q: Can the roof support snow loads?
A. Yes. The roof design is quite strong and can be walked upon easily. But the roof or skylight cannot support high snow loads of a couple feet or more. Most people who live in high snow areas have to be aware of the dangers that high snow loads create. It is the customers responsibilities to judge if you are in the high snow load area and upon high snow winter to clean the snow off the roofs when it is required, and also to reinforce the roof structure of the gazebo with extra hardware or supports.
Q: What kinds of roof skylight do your roofs have? What are the sizes of them?
A: Our Pacific and Hawaii gazebos have hip roofs with sky domes made with tinted 3mm acrylic glass. The skydome sizes are 3'x3' for 8'x8' models, 3'x6' for 8'x11' models, 4'x4' for 10'x10' & 12'x12' models, and 4'x6' for 10'x12' and 12'x14' models. Our Islander gazebos have no roof skylight, but have gable windows to let up light in.
Q: What materials do you use for your gazebo roof?
A: Similar to our house roofing, we use wood truss and rafter system, 1x4 strapping boards, plywood, tarpaper, mahogany plywood and selected roof top materials to build the gazebo roofs. The roof top materials include cedar shingles, cedar solid wood and profiled steel metal sheets.
Since we use the traditional roofing method to build roof, our roofs are designed and installed leak proof.
Q: Which roof top material do you recommend? Cedar solid wood, cedar shingles, steel metal or polycarbonate sheets?
A: All of them are good roofing materials. The benefits of cedar wood roof are the warmth and match to the whole cedar gazebo. It is less expensive than a metal roof. The benefits of the metal roofs are greater durability and low maintenance. So it is depending on individual's favorite and preferences.
Q. What kind of maintenance does the gazebo require?
A. Like any wood product, it does require a certain amount of regular maintenance. We recommend that in a good weather to stain the gazebo exterior as soon as possible with a quality semi-transparent stain of cedar tone (or favored color) in oil base or waterbase or apply with an oil based clear preservative coat. After that once a year or two you can re-stain the gazebo. In areas with high U.V. concentrations (high altitudes), the stain with U.V. protection and sealing properties is better. The real key is keeping it protected from U.V. and total water saturation, as these both will severely damage the wood grain over time.